Coda di volpe chicago series#

Lawless, along with partner Ryan O’Donnell ( Gemini Bistro), brought in chef Chris Thompson, who for two years helmed the celebrated A16 in San Francisco, which focuses on the food of the southwestern region of Campania.

Lakeview’s Southport corridor is the scene of his second Italian effort, Coda di Volpe, which unlike the generalized Acanto at least specializes in something-southern Italian. My instinct is to disregard these restaurants in favor of any kind that smells even remotely original.īut when a restaurateur as seasoned as Billy Lawless (the Gage, the Dawson) goes Italian, as he did at the nontraditional Mag Mile crowd-pleaser Acanto, duty calls. While there are fresh things to write and be excited about ( Osteria Langhe, Animale), I fear the oversupply of new, formulaic, pan-Italian pizza-pasta-piattini pushers might be creating an impression among unseasoned eaters that one of the world’s greatest cuisines is molto repetitivo. In terms of word slinging, the battle between steak houses and Italian spots for Chicago restaurant hegemony throughout the last few years has me running low on ammo.

Coda di volpe chicago series#

Sommelier Series (paid sponsored content)Īs a food writer, I’m beginning to view the appearance of every new Italian restaurant with existential dread.